Galles, 13th April 2008.

Galles is a town in Spain's Valencia province and from here a road leads via the Puento alto to Fuente de Jorcola which is the starting point of a 4 hour trek. My hat was hardly able to prevent the sun rays heating up my head spite of the firm cool breeze. The air temperature was ideal (app. 16 degrees) We followed the road in north-easterly direction after passing a desolate (free) camp site. Lots of birds were singing in the low bush. Only after we arrived at a plateau at 820 meter almond trees provided some shade. At the plateau a abandoned farm house and the yelling of a remote motorcycle were the only signs of human presence. We did not encounter anyone. The views north from the last leg were awesome. After a steep descent down from a waterhole we arrived, still in full sunshine and with great

satisfaction, at our Ford Ka at the Fuente. (no drinking water). As the (Spanish) guidebook said it was an easy trip with a steady rise to the plateau and a steep one down.

Personal rating: ***

Total distance: 14,5 km. Lowest point 490 m. Highest point 860 meters.

From Sluis to Domburg on the LAW 501

The LAW 501 runs along the coast of Zeeland, the most south-western province of Holland. Frans Spronk and I went on the misty morning of the 2^nd of November 2007 to the town of Sluis . This little city, 7 days a week teeming with Belgian tourists, was still a tranquil place at this early hour. We had parked our car near the residence of Rinus Meeuwsen. Rinus was a good friend of my parents and now for one year, enjoys the ambiance of his native town. After a delightful cup of coffee we set of and followed the town's ramparts from where we had changing views on the city and surroundings. The overcast sky contributed to the Friday morning serenity. 45 minutes passed before we left for the fields but soon we entered the very quiet border town called Retranchement. The Belgian-Dutch border hits the coast at the Zwin nature reserve from where we followed dyke and dune. Enjoying their autumn school holiday many Belgian families had taken over the paths and streets. Many of them were obviously in a good mood. If not so, Frans started a chat which most of the time resulted in a exchange of feeling or even sometimes linguistic knowledge.

After a lengthy break at a beach restaurant and a long walk over dune tops we completed our tour at the parking lot at the old Breskens-Vlissingen ferry. A good shower, some wine and the well prepared diner (Simone) made us soon feel sleepy. The night carried sweet dreams.

The next day we walked from Domburg to Vlissingen. The weather was slightly less cloudy and
we even had a short spell of sunshine. There was no free parking in Domburg so I guessed on
not being caught by the traffic cops. (with success). There are nice unsurfaced roads following
the dune tops resulting in magnificent views all around. At Westkapelle a dyke is nessary to withstand the rigors of the North sea so we were led over tarmac to the village centre where the lighthouse crowns an old church tower. The war memorial consisting of a Sherman tank and tables with old photographs called back the days of heavy bombardments to inundate the island in order to get rid of the German occupants. After the lecture in local history we passed a beautiful lake just beyond the dunes. It was full of different species of water birds. From thereon the surroundings of the dunes become more inhabited with humans and in Vlissingen only buildings, cars and restaurants were allowed to stimulated guests brain. After visiting the statue of Michiel de Ruyter we went to the railway station where Frans had his car parked.
In Domburg we parted at 16.40. I arrived home at 17.35. Fortunately our guests for that evening had not arrived yet.

Apart from the very poor red-white signs we only left good memories of the passed 2 days

Distance 2 x 28,5 km. Personal rating: ***

The last leg -the power of the Peel

I still had to walk the final stretch of the Sniederspad ­­from Bladel to Retie. Frans Spronk had chosen Tuesday the 16th October 2007 for this event. We parked our cars halfway between Retie and Kasterlee and also at Bladel from where we took off. After a few hundred meters the typical Peel landscape with its unsurfaced roads made me feel in another world. Or was it a reminiscent moment of the holidays with my aunt at the village of Best in the fifties? The wide sandy paths were lined by pine woods and corn fields.
The temperature was around 12 centigrade with a slight overcast sky. We walked and talked and enjoyed the surroundings. The Peel and Reusels’ heath and its curious man made 540 m big “grote cirkel” are typical for the area.

The E40 motorway and a 1934 signpost marked the Belgian-Dutch border but the typical sandy and marshy landscape remained the same.

We walked along the marchy wooded borders of a litlle stream near the channel from Antwerpen to Turnhout. For the first time after summer the sun reached the forest floor awakening beautiful mushrooms and warming old pensioners and the occasional dog.
The almost straight sealed Goorstraat near Retie looked very suitable for car racing youths but this 3 km long road was fairly quiet and Mississippie was not even leashed most of the time. After Retie, sunset played a serious but astonishing game with the forests and fields.

In almost darkness we arrived at the car park at the crossing of Reties Heike and the Desselse baan. The trip was a near perfect one with app. 80% non surfaced roads and beautiful scenery.

Distance walked: 35,2 km. Avg. operall speed: 4,4 km/hr. Duration: 8 hrs.
Personal rating: ****

Dworp-Ittre on the GR12

On Saturday 13th October 2007 Simone and I set off to ply the hills of Vlaams Brabant south of Brussels. In Halle bus 155 took us to stop “Destelheide” a mere 5 meters from the GR. It went uphill right away. After some corn fields we came to a series of lakes called Sept Fontaines. (the language border is here sharper than its country counterpart) The dampness of autumn here had a “warming” effect but soon we traversed shady woodland. We also often walked along forest borders enjoying grassland as well as the woods. The variety of toadstools was enormous. Many chestnuts were not left to nature. The highest elevation of the track was 148 m but the climbing was not very severe since temperatures were around the 16. We touched the “Haller bos” with its straight Dutch named lanes before crossing the busy E25. Hereafter it went in south-westerly direction to Brain le Chateau and from there southwards to Ittre. A very interesting stretch was the peaceful Potter landscape area where we had to cross a muddy cattle filled meadow. In Ittre we arrived at a bus stop. The bus driver took us 5 minutes later to Brain le Comte and from here we took the train back to Halle. All in all a very interesting walk

Personal rating: ****
Distance: 19,4 km. Hilly: Hill up 284 m. Lowest elevation: 38 m. Highest: 148 m.

The Sniedersway from Turnhout to Retie.

On the 8th October 2007 I was pleased to walk this stretch of the GR565 with my friend Frans Spronk who is a well trained 4 daagse runner. We certainly had a lot to talk about since it may well be that our last trip together was more than 5 years ago. Our cars were parked In Retie and Turnhout resp. At 10.30, after a mid-morning coffee at the railway station “buffet” , we set off in northerly direction. (Retie lies south east of Turnhout!) Soon we entered a nice wood where 3 biologists were counting the living animals in a sample of pool water. They were studying the effect of pollution with nitrates and phosphates and are supposed to give a solution for the restoration of this woodland swamp. After 8 km we entered Turnhout again and visited the beautiful and ever so quiet “Begijnhof” It was already noon and our hunger was stilled with a quick calorie rich bite from a stall. The sun was shining but although we walked in shirts the temperature was near ideal. From Turnhout we went south crossing the freeway and enjoyed the tranquillity of the many forest paths. The surroundings were less observed than at other trips due to the attention needed to share mutual experiences. We bordered the military domain west of Kasterlee. These are usually disserted and very quiet. Here too. The path hit the main road to Kasterlee and went in south easterly direction to Tielen. South of Kasterlee we ran short of water but a friendly teacher permitted us to get a new supply in her school. After Goor we crossed the Turnhoutse baan and followed the course of the Kleine Nete. By that time we had walked almost 38 km and Retie was not in sight yet. The sun was setting and 18.45 so we decided to go to the main road hoping for a bus to pass. At 19.43 we caught the bus to Retie having walked 41 km by now. Frans wanted a to celebrate this trip with a typical Belgian sin: French fries. Unfortunately, we did not find a “frietkot” and moved on to Turnhout and parted.

Personal rating: ***
Distance covered: 41 km. 38 on the GR565

16-17th September 2007

My brother got interested in walking 2 consecutieve days on the Belgian coast. It was going to be the GR5a in September. Early on Sunday we went to Nieuwpoort and immediately after arriving we set off in northerly direction The sky was clear and the 16 degrees Celsius ambient temperature ideal to hike. The paths were dry and did not compromise his low airy open shoes. It is flat countryside here and many canals and small rivers drain to the sea. First we went a bit inland and to the south of Middelkerke we walked from here on the boulevard all the way to Oostende. Talks, an agricultural show and people watching in Oostende kept us busy and in no time we were at our destination. After a trasty beer we took the beloved coastal tram back to our ladies. After a good sleep at the “Waaigat” B&B we planned to go down to “De Panne”. We thought having remembered the starting point from the previous day and took off east along the river IJzer. The grass was wet due to the abundant rain. In fact drizzle alternated with fierce rain during the entire trip. I noticed after many kms that the distance to our destination increased instead of getting closer to it. We eventually ended up in Diksmuide. It appeared we had taken the wrong GR. Later I learned that there is a GR IJzer from Nieuwpoort to the origin of the river. Anyway, although many roads are paved there was virtually no traffic and walking along the river with its many monuments reminding us of the horrible WW I battle here was pleasant in spite of the rain. Loek’s feet became wet and sore. Howeever, spirits remained high and the whole trip was enjoyable.

Distance GR5a: 20 km. Personal rating: * (monotoneous)
GR IJzer: 24 km. I rate this stretch: ***

GR12 from Ukkel Kalevoet to Dworp.

The weather forecast and Simone’s physical condition were promising. Therefore, on Wednesday 12^th September we took to the soutwestern border of Brussels at Ukkel Kalevoet’s dilapidated railway station. The chip key for the toilets contrasted the absence of basic hygiene but we got at least some privacy. Opposite the east entrance we found the red white markings and a little tunnel brought us to the west side of the station. Also contrasting was that, after a few hundred meters, we came into the woods!!! For the coming 1 or 2 km. we stuck to the eastern border of the Zenne lying 500 m down. Many a small paths ran between or behind

estates. From the dyke along the railway the 2 towers of the Beersel castle emerged from the fields. Unfortunatly the castle itself was closed between 12.00 and 14.00 so we only could admire it from the outside. This day the sun was gentle and the temperature perfect. (12-20 degrees). The undulating green hills were still hiding the subtle signs of autumn. The countryside and the alternation of woods and fields gave a real away from home feeling. Finally, we crossed the Steenweg op Alsemberg at a bus stop but we went to the Gildehuis pub in town and met some retired locals. Simone had no problems understanding them but I had to ask them regularly to repeat a sentence. Obviously we mutually enjoyed each others company.

The bus to Drogenbos took us in 20 minutes back to town.

Distance: 14 km. Slightly hilly.

Personal rating: ****

Sniederspad from Zoersel to Turnhout

One advantage of being retired is that one can adapt its activities depending on the weather.
So, I went hiking on Tuesday the 4^th September. The Kempen were said to be sunny with an occasional shower and temperatures around 19C. I left at 9.30 from Zoersel in southerly direction in bright sunshine. The grass was still wet. The GR marking here were responsible for some extra walking. Gradually the traffic noise from the E34 freeway came closer and when it was loudest I entered a huge forest with straight paths and soon silence returned. For nearly 5 km two horsewomen were the only humans I encountered . There was plenty of time to let one’s thoughts sprout freely. After passing Wechelerzande another wood had to be crossed.

The white-red markings were bright and were so well placed and clear that I thought of making a positive remark about the people looking after them. Suddenly, ten minutes later or so, near the “Achtzaligheden” tree, I noticed a man with an old-fashioned milk carrier, pruning scissors and a brush disappearing behind a shrub.
I met this greying man from Kasterlee who was painting the red-white signs and clearing obstructing bushes. Similar interests made talking easy. I was happy to have met one of those “angels” who lead me safe to my proposed destination.

With another person along my path , Mr. Swaens, I happen to discuss some matters of Flemish politics. He was very taken by the issue of becoming part of The Netherlands again. His dog took this opportunity to show his love for our little Jack Rusell.
Near Turnhout I walked along the unpaved path on the south side of the channel from Antwerpen to Dessel via Turnhout and so a perfect hike came to an end. I caught the 16.30 bus No 714 back to Zoersel.

Distance 31 km. Almost flat. Time: 7 hrs. Avg. speed: 5,0 km/hr.

Personal rating: ****

22-8-7: GR565 from Albertkanaal to Zoersel

Simone brought me to the bridge crossing the Kempisch kanaal where Gr565 turns east. It started to drizzle 5 min. before we arrived there. Since it seldom rains for the whole day I braved the dark skies. The pattern of the trip was build up areas with big houses with electric fences (small houses have barking dogs) alternating with dark woods. About 85% of the track is paved. Just before Halle the markings were so poor that I lost track but after approx. 4 km I found the yellow/white markings again. At Het Boshuisje one crosses the GR5. The gentle rain turned into a rain burst lasting for 1 hour. My underwear and socks got wet and the dog was soaked.
I arrived at Zoersel at 16.00 and found.... Simone. I made the car heater work at full speed and was driven home.

Distance: 27,5 km. Mixed surroundings. A fair lot of forest.

Personal rating: *

The GR12 again (31-7-2007)

Looking at the map Grimbergen-Mechelen did not appeal to me. I am a backcountry lover. This preoccupation was enforced by losing my way in awaking Mechelen. The GR markings were poor, hidden or not at all present. So, when a saw a bus going to Grimbergen just 5 min. after arrival at the railway station I decide to walk from the south to the north. After changing to bus 821 I arrived in full sunshine at the centre of Grimbergen where it was easy to pick up the trail. Off I was. Going north had to be the right direction. After just a few hundred meters the tar road changed into a small unpaved track and soon I entered the undulating corn fields. Almost 70% of this stretch of the GR runs along small paths. This was a real delight. Once at the Zenne near Mechelen I lost track again. The path is running down from the river dyke!
Within the town’s boundaries lies the beautiful provincial domain called Vrijburg park. It provide the needed sun. By now I followed my GPS since being led by the red-white signs was rather frustrating and made me feel like a young dog walking up and down.
Mechelen is a nice town with lots of historical buildings and nice parks. It gave me a feeling of dignity and tranquillity although the town is very close to Brussels.

Under the windscreen of my car I found what looked like an official document nicely wrapped in plastic. There is lots of parking space if one overlooks the ticket booth.

Distance: 24 km. Almost flat track. Personal rating: ***

GR12, balsamina and pigs dung

25th July 2007 in beautiful Lier. This little clean town in the Kempen has ancient narrow streets, nice church, colourful clock tower and a cosy Begijnhof. The start at 9.30 could not be better. Above that, the sun shone and we had a light breeze. With other words: perfect hiking conditions.
I left town from the south walking along the Nete and hiked through fields and small woods. Many roads were unpaved and some very grassy to Mississippi’s delight. On approaching Mechelen there are many glass houses. The yellow-white GR signs were often at odd places but with some intuition I was lucky not to get too far off track. I entered Mechelen along the Dyle river and hit a main street where I took bus 561 to Lier railway station, walked some distance on the cit wall to my car and at 17.00 off we went to a cool Leffe beer (at home)

I enjoyed this part of the GR12.

Total distance: 30 km. Flat. Ratio: crows flight/distance: 2,3. Avg.speed (rest incl.) : 4,0 km/h.
Personal rating: ***

GR12. 2nd lap from the BD border

18^th July 2007.

From Rivierenhof restaurant to Lier railway station. The weatherman’s forecast became true. Warm and dry. At 10.00 exactly I parked the car at the Sterckshof museum. We (the dog and I) walked up to the Rivierenhof restaurant. Here the GR5a and GR12 cross. The park is quiet but stopping meant being a target for the hungry mosquitos. The noise of the E313 left up gradually and the green surroundings of Fort 2 was obviously a good place for people making the paths a means to do some sporting activity. In Wommelgem I almost lost track at the roundabout south of the church. The red-blue marking was hidden in a little alley. The town itself I found not very attractive but the surroundings were nice with many pathways between the houses.

After 8,5 km. we took a rest because it was getting quit warm nearing midday. We entered fields and passed a some woods before entering Ranst. In Broechem the dog looked desperately for shade and we took another rest and some food at km 17 at the corner of a street . Passers by looked amused when the saw the old man and his dog. At least that is what I interpreted from their facial expression. Just byond Emblem I hit the Nete canal and Kleine Nete river and went in, to my surprise, northerly direction. The sun was not in for a compromise when walking the
banks of the river but lots of shade was waiting in the wetlands and the Kessels heath where I
lost the signs again and had to follow the highway in NE direction to get onto the right track again. The fort of Kessel and the Lier fishing clubs “battlefield” were the last spots of interest before I reached the bus stop at the Lisper Steenweg. Bus 423 did not arrive and I took one of the frequent trains back to Antwerp. Bus 21 brought me near the Sterckshof. It started raining.

Distance covered: 32 km. Length of GR: 29,3 km. Flat. Ratio crow’s flight/distance path: 2,5!!

Personal rating:***

GR12 from Brasschaat castle to Deurne Rivierenhof cafe.

About 1 year ago Simone and I walked from Putte to Brasschaat and now I went with the dog from here 14 km further south. The relentless snoring sounds of the motor ways were never far away. Yet, most of the time I had trees lining my path and I trod mainly honest grass and soil. That went on right before I entered Deurne. At the Rivierenhof cafe I met Simone and we sat at the rather cold terrace having a hot coffee. The weather had been rather unpredictable with virtually no sun, an occasional mild shower and temperatures peaking at 18 degrees.

All in all not a bad section of the GR12.

Distance: 14 km. Flat. Avg. speed: 4,8 km/h.

Personal rating: **

GR129

From bus stop Ooike Loweg (line 83) to bus stop Schoonbroekstraat (line 21) on the GR129 was 24 km. The first bus on this Sunday left at 9.45 from the railway station at Oudenaarde. It is cool and bright when I start off. After leaving the busy main road the GR takes to the fields west of the city. It appears that all Belgians got on their racing bikes to tour this area but only few take the hiking paths. An old man with no bell nor proper brakes gets a near accident with the dog. I felt very upset not having Mississippi on a leash and started arguing with my conscious.

Oudenaarde is a beautiful city with lots of marvellous buildings. The carillon made my lunch after some 10 kms on the banks of the river Scheld a serene event. After crossing town we went east of the railway line down south. I walked mainly surfaced roads but they were extremely quiet. The undulating fields with mainly maize and beets and the interspersed hamlets made me think of the Ardennes. Via the Muziekbos we (me and my dog) arrived at the Kanarieberg where a real Chimay beer made me slightly dizzy but the last part of the track was only 1,5 km and went downhill. I had to wait for 45 min. at the bus stop and felt happy when the dark clouds gradually drove towards Ronse. Bus, train and car took me after 6 hrs back home.

Total distance 24 km. I went 326 m uphill with a maximum altitude at 134 m

Personal rating: ****

20th June 2007 GR129

The weather forcast was almost right: up to 25 C. I went this time alone without Simone nor the dog. I drove to Kruishoutem in Belgium and parked the bike at the to the crossing of the GR with the N494 drove on to the crossing of the 128 and 129 near Aarsele and started in bright sunshine on concrete roads along numerous houses. The countryside had a quiet atmosphere but there was nothing spectacular to be seen.

I arrived after 13,3 km at Kruishoutem and decided to walk on to the place where the GR crosses the N459 just north-east of Oudenaarde. Since 95% of the path was paved I took the bike with me. The landscape changed and became slightly hilly and less built up. We passes a castle and an old dismembered mill. The sun shone relentless and the temperature rose to 29C. I started to run out of water. So I knocked at a door and a friendly person understood my request for the precious fluid. In the mean time I walked 30 km and drank 1 l of water and ate a big apple. I guess that this amount is insufficient. So, another lesson was learnt. Fortunatly after getting the extra supply of water I hit road N 459 and mounted the bike to speeded up to the starting point of my trip. The fierce wind helped me. In Opsele I could not withstand the attraction of a big sing advertising Leffe so I visited a local pub. The rest of the trip went fast and I felt very pleased to get to my car at 16.00.

Total distance on GR129: 29,3 km
Uphill: 230 m. Time needed: 6.30 hours.

Personal rating: *** . The stretch north of Kruishoutem: *

GR129 and 128

Tuesday 12th June 2007. The sound of birds and smell of pig’s dung. Concrete back roads and overcast. These are the main characteristics of this combination of 128 and 129.

Leave your car at the railway station in Deinze and take (app. hourly) bus 87 to Lotenhulle. Go to the Hoeke castle garden at the south end of town and you are on the right track.

After a 2 kms you leave this lovely estate and move into pig keeping country with here and there a herd of masculinized cows. I didn’t hear the disturbing sounds of highway traffic. At the rail line east of Deinze is the crossing between the GR 128 and 129 (N50 58 59.5 E3 26 01.6). For 2,5 km the path follows the old course of the Leie and one enters the outskirts of Deinze. The GR passes the church in town and goes further east along the Leie. Here I leave the path to go back to my car which I parked at the Delhaize’s super market parking lot.

Distance covered: 21 km. Flat. Average speed: 4,3 km/hr.

Personal rating: ***

GR129 Drie Koningen to Lothenhulle

Sunday 10th June 2007. Overcast and 17 °C. Transport was secured by putting a bike near the church of Lothenhulle and driving to the parking place of Bulskampveld at Drie Koningen. I hit the 129 right away by walking 30 m south. The one time arid area was now planted with trees mainly beech but also pine. A few joggers and others seeking the benefit of the morning. Here and most of the track beyond mostly the sounds of nature were heard. App. 60% of the trip went through forest and 11 km of the 28 was on unpaved roads!!!!. The narrow tar and concrete roads were almost devoid of motorised traffic and cyclists. The track is almost flat.

There was little sun but on warm days the woods may bring some cooling. A fantastic trip which ended by a cycling back for 16 km to my starting point.

Total distance: 28 km. Elevation: 5-27 m.

Personal rating:****

Wenduine to Varsenare on the GR5a

From Varsenare to Wesduine by bus 52 and the frequent coastal tram took 1.30 hr. In Wesduine the GR5a comes from Bruge and joins the coastline. I walked east instead. The fog shrouded the whit clad farms. The flat lands were covered with enormous fields planted with grain. As the mist cleared the cool wind drove away the excess body heat. The sun shone bright.
Apart from the church, pub and wetlands in and around Meetkerke there was very little surprise along this trip. Only 4,2 km of the 21 was unpaved and it looked that all young, old, thin and fat Belgians, male and females alike, got a new bike at Pentacost.
It was too hot for Mississippi and although she drank enough water she was fully exhausted when I took a nice cool Rochefort trappist beer (one of the few still brewed by trappists themselves) at the local pub in Varsenare.

Length: 21 km. Flat.

Personal rating: *

Shiny Thursday. 24th May 2007.

From Wesduine (the point where the Gr5A from Brugge hits the coast) to Oostend along the GR5A. The destination was not known until after arriving in Ostend and it need not be because along the entire Belgian coast there runs the "Kusttram" The sun shone and because of Simone's radiculitis I was forced to go alone. Mississippi was my only companion.

To my surprise we walked a very large stretch in coastal pine forest although the traffic was eminently present. Only when the path followed the beach the dunes prevented stopped the noise of oil consumers. The trip up to Ostend was perfect as well as the part where one traverses the local park. A final Trappist (here apart from clergy also the name of a beer) and the ride on the tram made the trip well worth.

Distance: 19 km. Total average speed: 4,0 km/h. Flat.

Personal rating: ***

GR122 Friday 20th April 2007

Lesdain-Peruwelz. The weather forecast was favourable: that means is not going to be as warm as the previous and oncoming days. 15 degrees Celsius we found just right. And so it was.

The TEC bus took us at 10.14 from Doornik to Lesdain and from there we set off north into nursery country. Apparently, the sandy soil here is quite suitable for growing young trees. We went in south-easterly direction towards Brunehaut. From here we followed the tranquil canalised Escaut river. The views were nice and on the east bank poplar stands broke the wind. After rounding a man made forest we took a rest at the local café at Peronnes were cargo vessels are being repaired and maintained at a lake were the disused canal Peronnes-Blaton-Nimy starts. At Morlies a bridge crosses another old canal named canal Pommereul-Antoing, a fishersman paradise that finds it origine at the same place as the previously mentioned canal. Both canals follow an easterly direction and the GPS showed that we were moving away from Doornik, our destination. We were on another leg of the GR122 than planned. But Peruwelz has good bus and even train connections so not to worry.
The sun still shone bright and sunburn seemed not unlikely.
The whole trail is extremely quite with an occasional cyclist and no hikers. Just 2 km before the road Peruweltz-Wiers we leave the GR to catch a bus to Antoing and Doornik where we parked the car nearby the railway station.

Distance: 22 km. Lowest point: 15 m. Highest: 50 m. Avg.speed: 4,0 km/h

Personal rating: ***